In this blog post, I want to share how to keep all the sequins on one side of your work.
First, you need to choose a yarn to combine with your Cosmo yarn. I’m using cotton yarn Safran by Drops, but you can use almost anything, like acrylic, wool, or even mohair. Have you seen it mixed with mohair? It looks absolutely amazing! The idea is that the second yarn helps hold the sequins on one side. If you use Cosmo yarn on its own, the fabric will be too loose, and the sequins will show on both sides, as you can see in the video. We want to avoid that.
Second, choose the right stitch for your project. I recommend using solid stitch patterns like rows of sc, hdc, or dc. Taller stitches, lace, or mesh patterns won’t keep the sequins on one side.
Third, after choosing your yarn and pattern, make a swatch. When I made mine, I noticed that more sequins appeared on the wrong side than on the right. That means the “wrong” side actually became my right side. If you’re working in rows, using shorter stitches on the right side can help keep even fewer sequins visible. For my swatch, I used sc on the right side and dc on the wrong side. After finishing, I also pulled a few sequins from the right side to the wrong side, and that’s it.
This technique works even better when working in the round, because all the sequins naturally move to the wrong side, and you don’t need to mix stitches. For my skirt, I used only dc rows, and it looks amazing!
As you can see, this technique is really simple. What do you think? I’d love to know how you would use it and for which projects. And if you’ve tried it, did you also notice more sequins on the wrong side?
MATERIALS:
Yarn:
Cosmo by Lana Grossa 100% cotton yarn with sequins that adds sparkle and sophistication to any project. With 100 grams and 260 meters per skein – one and half skeins.
Drops Safran by Garn Studio , made from 100% combed Egyptian cotton, 50 grams and 160 meters – three skeins.
Gauge: 10 x 10 cm (4×4 in) = 16 stitches x 10 rows
Size: M, length – 31 cm (13 1/4in), width – 58 cm (23 in). The pattern consists only of double crochet stitches and is made based on your measurements. It’s very simple, so you don’t need advanced crochet skills to make it.
Crochet Hook: 3.5 mm, E/4.
Stitches Used: Ch(s) – chain(s), sl st – slip stitch, dc – double crochet.
The pattern is written using American English Crochet Terms.
PATTERN:
Measure the area where you want the skirt to sit. I wanted a low-rise skirt, so I measured the circumference of my hips where it fits best. I also wanted a trapezoid shape, so I added increases at the beginning to achieve that form. The pattern is worked in the round, top-down.
Round 1: Crochet a foundation dc row, join with sl st to top the first stitch. The number of stitches is a multiple of 5. I made 125 dc stitches.
Round 2-3: Ch 3 (count as the first dc), dc in each dc around, join with sl st to top of ch 3.
Round 4: Ch 3 (count as the first dc), dc in the same st, dc in next 4 dc, * 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 4 dc **, repeat from * to ** to the end of the round, join with sl st to top of ch 3. 150 dc stitches.
Round 5: Ch 3 (count as the first dc), dc in each dc around, join with sl st to top of ch 3.
Round 6: Ch 3 (count as the first dc), dc in the same st, dc in next 4 dc, * 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 4 dc **, repeat from * to ** to the end of the round, join with sl st to top of ch 3. 180 dc stitches.
Round 7: Ch 3 (count as the first dc), dc in each dc around, join with sl st to top of ch 3.
Round 8: Ch 3 (count as the first dc), dc in the same st, dc in next 9 dc, * 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 9 dc **, repeat from * to ** to the end of the round, join with sl st to top of ch 3. 198 dc stitches.
Round 9: Ch 3 (count as the first dc), dc in each dc around, join with sl st to top of ch 3. Repeat the last round until you reach the desired length. I crocheted 29 rounds.
The upper part of the skirt:
If the skirt is a little too wide on your hips, you can add a few rounds to make it slightly narrower. I crocheted a round of sc with decreases every 4–5 stitches: attach the yarn to any stitch (I made it using only Safran yarn, without sequin yarn), ch 1, sc in the same stitch, sc in the next 2 stitches, sc2tog in the next 2 stitches, *sc in the next 3 stitches, sc2tog in the next 2 stitches; repeat from * to the end of the round. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first sc. Make one more round of sc without decreases, and you’re done!
